I find most New York wine lists to be pretty cookie-cutter, with the same producers paying to push the same bottles. So it’s rare to find a thoughtful list like Clay’s compiled by Gabriela Davogustto, which is packed with classic and cutting edge wines.
Davogustto has an indomitable spirit. She immigrated to America from Venezuela before Hugo Chavez came to power, moving from hostess to chain cook to eventually become director of wines and now runs a restaurant in Harlem.
On a recent Zoom call, Davogustto and I spoke about his career path, his secrets to studying wine, and the grim realities restaurants continue to face during the COVID-19 era.
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